Sunday, 29 December 2019

I Know It's Only Sausage Rolls, But I Like It.

I Know It's Only Sausage Rolls But I Like It.

             LS Lowry. 'The Doctor's Waiting Room'.

I can't believe it's only four weeks since my last outpouring. Such a lot has happened, I don't know where to start.
The 3 'M's (Me, Mrs. S. and Monty)  left Álora at the crack of dawn on December 5th. rumbo al norte (heading north), first stop 'El Capricho' on the autovia to Granada for our traditional Back to Britain Breakfast -tostada con aceite de oliva (y tomate for me)´, y café.

                                     El Capricho

Probably the best thing about the motorways of Spain is that  there are good places to stop for coffee and something to eat every few kilometres. The newer roads, such as the A45 to Córdoba have hardly any and so should be avoided if possible.
Some motorway cafeterías and restaurantes are disappointing, so a long journey can be made more interesting by trying to pick somewhere good to stop. (what used to be called 'a good pull-in' in the early days of British motoring).
The ones to avoid are petrol stations with just a shop and a coffee machine. The best ones are hotels with restaurants and are nearly always visible from the road. Look out for the 'bed' sign and NEVER follow signs for one that you can't see from the road - you may end up driving miles to a run-down bar or the Spanish equivalent of The Bates Motel.


I hope my readers in Ireland, Singapore and the Turks and Caicos Islands will find that information helpful. Good morning to you all and 'Happy motoring!'


Our first overnight stop is nearly always in Aranda de Duero, south of Burgos where there is a cheap, dog-friendly hotel, cheap diesel and lots of good Ribera del Duero wine if you've got any room for it in your car. (there's always room for a few more bottles). 
                             Hotel Tudanca, Aranda

 After breakfast and Burgos black pudding bulk buying at Sotopalacios we headed for the snow-capped Cantabrian mountains and Santander.

                              Cantabrian Mountains

After two more nights in the cosy luxury of a hotel room, little Monty was ill-prepared for a night and day banged up in a stainless steel cell on the wind-and-seaspray-lashed top deck of the Cap Finisterre, Brittany Ferries' second-string and second-hand ferry boat, especially after his triumph in the Pont Aven International Dog Show on the way down in September. 
                                  Cheer up Monty!

As usual there was a problem with the pet passport. The computer rejected it in Plymouth on the way down but they let him through anyway (how could you resist a look like that?). This time I got them to check the passport the day before, all OK, but once again the computer went 'ding' and bounced it back as we checked in. Apparently there are only 30 days in June.
They let him through again ('We're being much more relaxed about pet passports because of Brexit') but he has to have a new passport before we go back in March. (I hope this vet knows there are 31 days in December).

We landed at Portsmouth and drove in the dark up to Birmingham - slap bang into the Brexit/General Election nightmare which dear old Albion has wished upon itself and which mystifies all our Spanish friends in Álora - even Maria Gracia, the camarera (waitress) at Cafe-Bar Madrugón can´t believe it.

Maria Gracia making a gesture that means 'When are you going to pay for a round of drinks you tight Guiri bastard?'

How to ruin Christmas

Back in rain-drenched Brum everyone was even more depressed and downbeat than usual. Every news broadcast began with the words 'Boris Johnson' and all but two of our national newspapers screamed Corbyn-directed hatred from their front pages every day. This was not a happy place. And it still isn't. Everyone I have met so far has asked me why we don't live in Spain permanently ('Why don't you f*ck off back to Spain, then?') and for the first time in 20 years it's worth considering. The National Health Service is our most powerful reason for staying.

One of the first things we do when we get back to our Winter Residence in the Merry Midlands, as I like to call them, is to get things fixed, and so this inevitably means a visit to the doctor, the optician, the dentist and the garage. In my case I had to follow up a course of vitamin B12 tablets 'prescribed' (8.45€ a packet) by a doctor in Álora. (see Man in Álora 21/7/19). 

I decided to play 'Appointment Challenge' - a game which you can play if you have 'the app' (The Birmingham & Solihull Health App') and which you are obliged to play unless you want to play 'In The Phone Queue' which is a test of endurance involving listening to a distorted version of a vaguely familiar old pop hit for about three quarters of an hour, punctuated periodically by a pleasant person informing you that you are 'number 34/33/32, and so on, in the queue', and you don't mind being told, at the end of all that aural GBH, that 'all appointments have been taken, please try again tomorrow.'


'The app', which is the very latest thing in IA (Artificial Intelligence) can be lots of fun, unless, of course, you're feeling a a bit under the weather, and you have to be up before 7.30 am. to play. This is the time that the NHS Gaming Centre opens its website. Then it's a mad rush to see if you can snap up any of the juicy appointments that flash momentarily onto the screen. It's a thrilling 'head to head' with all the other thousands of desperate patients playing at the same time. (Watch your blood pressure! ). You've got to be in it to win it!

It's very unusual for your own GP's name to appear on this list because you have to win at 'Level One' before you can progress to 'Level Two' which is also called 'Names You May Recognise'. (Tip: It's worth checking the Practice website to see an up-to-date list of doctors.)

I thought I'd won at my first attempt but the two appointments that I thought I'd bagged both turned out to be fake. I expect someone was just having a laugh. Honestly, some people!

I went down to the 'Practice' but it was closed for lunch.
On my next visit I bagged an appointment for 8.15 am. two days into the future. Result!

As I sat in the waiting area (after checking myself in on the interactive TV screen) I had lots of time (45 minutes) to read all the interesting posters and instructions that are blu-tacked to every available wall space.


It took me a bit of time to work out 
'DON'T BE A CHLAM-IDIOT!' though.

As I was sitting there, losing the will to live, my thoughts drifted back to the 'good old days' when a visit to the doctor's meant sitting for hours in a humid, smoky room (it was usually raining and everyone was wet and/or smoking cigarettes) trying to work out who was before you as there were no appointments and the seating was random. There was usually a lot of coughing, mainly from the gang of likely lads hoping to get a few days off work 'on the sick'. Any lucky winner would strut out of the surgery, grinning broadly and waving his 'sick note'.
Those were the days! 


                   Doctor's waiting room, Oldham 1959

The Band That Never Was

I don't think I've mentioned this before in this venereal organ but I have two pianos (one of them is electric and in Álora), 4 guitars, a banjo, 5 mouth organs, a bugle and a flute in the loft. 
I'm not trying to sell them. Not all of them work properly or I might be open to offers.
Owning musical instruments does not make you a musician, just like owning 5 or more Spanish language course books does not make you fluent in Spanish or owning an Olympic-size swimming pool makes you an Olympic swimmer.

I dabble a bit on the piano and guitar when I'm in the mood.
Imagine my delight and surprise, then, when I was invited in September by two other owners of instruments to join them and play some songs.
The drummer lives a few houses down from us in Calle Benito Suarez and my electric piano is portable, so our first 'practice' was in his house. (Beer provided.)

I was introduced to the piano by a man called Brian Ingram who played in the pubs round Oldham under stage names of 'Rockin' Brian and Brian 'Teddy Boy' Lewis. (If you follow the link he's about 10 minutes in.) I believe he's still performing although the last time I saw him he was running a successful Tattoo Parlour in Ashton-under-Lyne.
Brian's piano style was violently percussive along the lines of Little Richard and Jerry Lee Lewis and his singing 'voice' was more of a loud snarl. He assured me that it took very little skill and no musical knowledge at all to master the technique and by the end of half an hour I could bang out 'Great Balls of Fire' like a good 'un. Since that day I've never looked forwards.

                                  Jerry Lee Lewis.

Anyway, Terry and Arthur (not their real names, which have been changed to protect the innocent) were keen to get going on some 'tunes'. Terry is a big Hollies fan and knew the chords to some of their songs. Unfortunately none of us could sing as high as Graham Nash and seeing as how the Hollies relied heavily on two or three part harmonies we were handicapped from the 'get go' as we musos put it. 


                    The Hollies (Graham Nash in the front) 

The same went for Beatles songs although we did manage to get through 'The Ballad of John and Yoko' which isn't noted for its high notes nor its harmonies. I had to do all the singing. Sadly, no recording was made of this session. It was cut short by a text I received from Mastercard telling me my credit card had been robbed to the 'tune' (!) of 8,000 pounds.
Our second practice went quite well as I just banged out all the Rock and Roll and Blues tunes I know in easy keys and they played along.
I think 'Arthur' the drummer was getting a bit fed up with helping me to carry my heavy piano up the street to his house and back or perhaps we had necked all his beer. Anyway he got an offer from another band and that was that.
It was good while it lasted. Well, it was fun.

I never made it to the big time, but I have started to taste what fame tastes like. Two, yes Two people have approached me to ask if I am THE 'Man in Álora'!!!
It's not got to the stage, yet, when I can't go out for fear of being mobbed by people wanting my autograph and trying to rip off pieces of my clothing, but who knows? 

Pie News 




Comillas. A beautiful town west of Santander.
There were no pies to be found.
It means 'footpath'.








A Mrs. Sánchez home made Game Pie.
It tastes even better than it looks.


 








¡Feliz año nuevo! (Happy New Year)

Juanito Sánchez
December 29th. 2019

Sunday, 24 November 2019

Olive Woes. Flamenco Fun and Álora digs in for a Wintery Winter


Olive woes, Flamenco Fun and Álora Digs in for a Wintery Winter,

The Olive Fly

Otoño (autumn) has been cancelled here in Álora. We've gone straight from summer to winter this year. All the perotes are now going round with scarves over their faces to stop the cold aire de arriba (north wind) from entering any orifice. They say you can catch all sorts of nasty things from a cold racha up the raja.
Temperatures in single figures (°C) were recorded last Wednesday in La Plaza de la Fuente Arriba (Top Square) but that didn't stop the hardy Brits and Norwegians from sitting out in the sickly sunshine sipping sub-zero cervezas and  cafés con leche while the bemused local populace gazed on in disbelief.
I say, old chap. Mind turning the heating down a bit?



'¡Brrrr. Hace un frío que te cagas y los guiris siguen como sí nada! (Those foreigners are so brave.)
              La Sierra de Las Nieves, Casarabonela

Mrs. Sánchez, and I have been picking olives for the last two weeks. We keep telling ourselves that it's just a hobby and that when it stops being fun we'll pack it in. We came very close to that point after battling against freezing gale force winds up in the foothills of the Sierra de Las Nieves.

                                    Our olive crop.

To' pa' na' (Todo para nada)(all that work for nothing) as the locals would say.
We struggled to pick a measly 543kg. 

It's been a bad year for olives. No rain over the winter and high summer temperatures attracted every olive fly in Andalucía to our little field where they flitted about merrily laying their eggs in our juicy ripening olives. ¡Cabrones!


Olive flies don't have much of a life compared to ours but their chances of survival improved no end when some do- gooder, nanny-state kiljoy stopped the farmers spraying lethal poison onto the olive groves from a small aircraft.


We used to love watching that little plane come flying low over the valley opposite our back wall. We'd all wave madly to the pilot who would wave back and dip his wings in response before opening the vents and spraying a brightly coloured cloud of insecticide over us. Oh! Those were the days!


                       The Peña Flamenca cerca 2005
Álora is famous in Andalucía for inventing a form of Flamenco called La Malagueña. There is a flourishing flamenco club in the town called La Peña Flamenca and it used to be down at the end of Paseo Martos next door to the underwear and lingerie shop. It was very exclusive. We tried for two years to get in there but kept getting cold-shouldered by the aficionados. We finally got in by shelling out 40€ for membership.
Everyone has heard of Flamenco and, along with los toros (bullfighting), tapas, sol and sangría it's what's Spain´s all about, isn't it?


Well, if you think it's about castanets, and beautiful dusky maidens whirling about to hand clapping and strumming guitars you´ll have a shock if you manage; first, to find the Peña Flamenca, which is difficult enough, and then to get in to watch a concert.
The Flamenco they do round here is called Cante Grande or Cante Jondo and usually involves an elderly man sitting on a chair with his eyes closed and one hand stretched out, palm upwards, singing a wailing song about difficult times on the farm, the death of his brother or the loss of his wife to a travelling salesman. The guitarist fills in between verses, giving the cantante time for a swig of water or manzanilla wine and to get his breath back.

It´s very serious stuff, believe me, and it can send chills down your spine even though the rhythms are almost impossible to make out and you've probably got no idea what he's singing about.
Here's one of the most famous flamenco singers of all time 
Cameron de la Isla and a few others.

There are a considerable number of women singers too and one of the most famous, Antoñita Contreras comes from and lives in Álora although I haven't seen her for some time doing her shopping in our local Mercadona.


                                Antoñita Contreras

 The Peña Flamenca of Álora moved to a new place a few years ago and we stopped going. It always seemed to be shut. A couple of weeks ago we went for the first time to the new venue, which is just as hard to find, but it's up Folklórico Pepe Rosas, off Camino Nuevo and just past the office of Diego García Rebollo the brilliant asesor. (WE SPEAK ENGLISH).
The advertised artists did not turn up that night so they rang round to find some local singers and guitarists to step in. Mrs. S. and I felt that we'd 'come home' after such a long break.
One of the two guitarists that night was Emilio Cortes who played well and came over after to say hello. He died the next day.

                     Emilio Cortes with Miguel 'El Pibri'

 We went to the Peña again last night with young Patricio, our lad, to see a marvellous performance by Rosi Campos (al cante) and José Juan Pantoja (a la guitarra).Rosi can really bash it out. 

                Rosi Campos and José Juan Pantoja.

There was a notice on the door saying 'SOLO SOCIOS' (members only) but that's just there to keep out the stag party crowds and the riff-raff. I knew we'd get in with no hassle because my 'tocayo' and top flamenco aficionado, Juan, had slipped me the nod by giving me a poster. A 'tocayo' is someone with the same name as you. It's great having tocayos. A few weeks ago the same Juan came up to me in my office in the top square and gave me a bottle of very tasty vino tinto! Result!
                              View from my office

There are a lot of stray dogs around here at the moment, especially out in the campo (outside town). Most of them are big dogs which are used as guard dogs to protect the fincas that surround Álora. I suspect that they get kicked out in winter because they're expensive to keep. 

The other day my amigo and  Honorary Olive Grove Manager Colin, and I came across an emaciated greyhound walking in the middle of the road as we were driving Monty out for his morning run. I stopped the car and we threw out a cereal bar to it. The dog ignored the food but crawled under our car, where it was warm and shelter from the cold wind. We couldn't get it to budge. I tried luring it with bits of the cereal bar and poking it with a stick. No luck. A local chap pulled up and helpfully suggested bouncing the car up and down.
Eventually they kept an eye on the dog as I slowly reversed the car back over it. The dog survived the experience but I don't have much hope that he'll make it through the winter.

Ultramarinos


This is a little shop in Calle Granada in the old part of Málaga, which has become very popular for tourists and where there are hundreds of bar and restaurants. I have passed this shop many times without even noticing it or wondering what it sold. The other day I noticed another 'Ultramarino' in Plaza Santa Ana in Álora.


It's a 'mini-supermarket' or grocery shop. You see them in towns and villages everywhere, along with 'erías' like  fruterías, carnicerías, pescaderías, cafeterías, peluquerías etc. So why do these little grocery shops have such an unusual name?
I'll tell you. 
They got their name ('things from over the seas') from the products brought back from the old Spanish colonies like coffee, spices, beans and cod. They never specialised in one product so they didn't qualify for 'ería' status.

Una heladería

Most of the old Ultramarinos shops were replaced by supermarkets but you still see them in the 'barrios'. The old ones were like the old Co-operative stores in England - a cross between a warehouse and a shop. 


They usually had white marble counters and were 'open all hours'. The mixture of aromas gave the ultamarinos a distinctive exoctic ambience.

They say that the very Spanish custom of 'pedir la vez' started in the ultramarinos. Everyone who comes to live or stay for more than a few days in Spain will have experienced 'pedir la vez'. You`ll be waiting in the bank (no queue here) or frutería or the  carnicería and the next customer to come in will say, '¿Quién es el último?' or 'la ultima'. ('Who is the last?) Everybody then points at you and you say 'Yo!'( I am). 
What fun!
This system does not work in bars. It's every man and woman for themselves there. 

Bar News

Waiting time at Bar Romero is now down to 40 minutes.

Antonio has, at last, reopened his bar, La Jamonería, after three weeks holiday. 

Juanito Sánchez November 24th. 2019
 
 

 







Friday, 11 October 2019

Álora's Annual Solid Soup Day and What You Shouldn't Say about Ham.

Álora's Annual Solid Soup Day and What You Shouldn't Say About Ham.



It's a  sunny, peaceful autumn day in Álora. It's a verano de membrillo (a quince summer). It´s hot for the time of year.
I've just stacked up a load of olive logs in the wood store ready for the colder days to come. 


Up in La Plaza de la Fuente Arriba the cafe-bars are doing a roaring trade in cafés, tostadas, churros, bocadillos and ice-cold beer. It´s chockabloc up there. Outside Cafe-Bar El Madrugón an impromptu bit of flamenco has just broken out. 


Not what you'd call a 'flash mob' but a reminder that Álora is an Andalusian town -  even though some of the drinkers up there are necking  beer from litre (2 pints) glasses. (grandes)


This alien 'Costa' custom has now reached inland Andalucía.
The locals don't get it. In temperatures of 35 degrees Celcius a litre of beer in full sun will heat up quite quickly, and warm lager tastes like piss. That's why the Perotes (people from Álora) drink their beer in tiny cañas (small tumblers) or tubos (tall thin 'highball' glasses). The empty glasses are kept in the freezer too. Perhaps these lads think they are getting a bargain by buying beer in bulk - or they may just like drinking piss.

                                             cañas

 Round here they like their cerveza with a lot of 'espuma' (foam) on top, - the more the better, and the glass is not a standard measure, as it would be in Inglaterra. Believe it or not, the locals would be fighting over who gets the frothy one on this tray of cañas.
A few years ago I tried this old gag in  Bar Lo D'Antonio ;

'Can you put a whisky in that caña for me?'
'Certainly'.
'Well if you can fit a whisky in it, you can fit some more beer in it, mate. Fill it up!'

(Puzzled looks all round). 


I keep getting caught out by a freezing cold glass of red wine. Because it gets so hot here, they keep the red wine alongside the white, at near freezing temperatures. It soon warms up in the summer heat but they forget to take it out of the fridge when the weather gets cold (cold for here, that is). From November to June you've got to ask for your red wine 'del tiempo' (room temperature) if you don't want to get a shooting pain up your teeth as you take your first sip of Rioja or Ribera del Duero.



 Last Saturday we had the annual Día de las Sopas Perotas in Álora.


Every year, on the First Saturday in October, Álora throws its doors open and welcomes people of all nations and gender orientation to a day of gastronomic challenge. Our signature dish, Sopas Perotas (it´s not soup) is celebrated in style.


Apart from Viernes Santo (Good Friday), it´s the only time the ayuntamiento (town hall) admits that there's another vibrant and picturesque plaza in Álora... La Plaza Baja de la Despedía (The 'Bottom Square'). Thousands of people were lured down from the´Top Square' by the promise of a free plate of nourishing and piping hot sopas (with some olives), served to them by our distinguished new alcalde (mayor), Snr. Francisco Martínez.

                                   Sopas Perotas



I've tried very hard to like it. It´s all right if you´re hungry.

Here's Señor Martinez ('Humillo' to his pals) dishing out the stuff to the hungry, starving masses. On his right is Susana Díaz who is taking a bit of chance. She came last year when she was the President of Andalucía and was booted  out a few weeks later.
The only way is up.



After queueing for two hours in the hot sun you might well be hungry...if you're still standing.

The ambulance stationed outside our door was doing good business too. The day was really hot.

There were lots of wonderful stalls, many selling food which is produced locally.The local beekeeper, Antonio told me he sells 1500 kilos a year of his honey to a man who has a stall on The Bullring Market in Birmingham.

As usual, only a small number of estranjeros (foreigners) turn up for the event. Those who do, insist on calling our distinguished delicacy 'soup'.
It's NOT soup.

It´s true that sopa means soup, but sopas is the word for what you see above. Does it look like soup?

Oxford Spanish Dictionary

Sopas 
'Aunque se denomine sopa, no es un plato con caldo ya que el pan lo absorbe,  aunque si que se toma con cuchara.'

Aunque la mona se vista de seda, mona se queda.
(Even if a monkey is dressed in silk, it's still a monkey)

I'm glad we've cleared that up.

It's one thing knowing what it's NOT, but quite another knowing what it IS. (rather like BREXIT). At least you can see what Sopas looks like.

It´s actually made from stale bread, potatoes, green peppers, tomatoes, hot stock and oil. Mmmm.

The word 'Sopas' is another 'false friend' like;

actual   (it actually means 'currently')
asistir    (not assist, but attend)
constipación   (a cold)
embarazada    (pregnant) 
vaso     (a drinking glass without a stem)
suceso    ( an event)
ropa     (clothes) 
and this one...


Not the opening of a pie shop in Álora at all!
It´s a foot clinic!
Pie = foot 
¡Qué decepción!




Yesterday I bumped into an old friend in Mercadona (Álora's 'out of town' hypermarket complex). He told me that he's leaving Spain before the end of October. 
Julio and his wife are worried about being refused entry into Britain if the UK leaves the European Union on October 31st.


Julio moved to England from Italy, aged 16, in 1962 when immigrants to Britain were welcomed. He worked there continuously for 45 years. He married an English rose, raised a family and ran a pizza bakery until retiring  to Spain 15 years ago. His grown up children and their families live in England. There had never been any question about his right to return to live in England until the forced repatriations under Theresa May's 'hostile environment' policy and anti-European Brexit propaganda gave many people like Julio reason to fear for their future.


Letters to the UK authorities asking about Julio's status have not been answered or acknowledged.
Buen viaje, Julio. We'll really miss you.






The olives on our trees have started to ripen. In just over 3 weeks we'll be heading off to Olivar Caicunes with our nets, poles and rakes to hacer la cosecha. Our Liverpudlian migrant workers have already booked  flights out and Mrs. Sánchez and I have no broken bones (so far) this year. All volunteers are very welcome to come and give us a hand. The pay is not good - well, there's no pay- but you can eat all the olives you want.

                            Two happy olive pickers

We pick all the olives by hand but the proper farmers use machines that shake the  branches. We don't need those contraptions because our migrant workers are from Liverpool which has some of the best pubs in Britain and they already have 'the shakes'.


These machines cost about 1000 euros and make a noise like a chainsaw. Where's the fun in that?

You may have noticed I slipped in a Spanish refrán (proverb) up there.
The Spanish are very fond of proverbs - there are 100,000, apparently - I have a book with 1000 of them in it. I can honestly say that I have tried using lots of them but not once has anyone understood one.
I think someone made them all up for the book  Most of them make so sense at all.
Here's a few examples to try out if you want to impress the girl in the frutería in the Top Square. See if you can think of an English equivalent:

'En casa de ahorcado no hay que mentar la soga'.
 (When you're in the house of a hanged man, don't mention rope.)

'Quien da su hacienda antes de la muerte merece que le den un mazo en la frente'.

(Anyone who gives away his property before he's dead deserves a biff on the forehead.)

La rodilla de María García que más me ensucia que me limpia.
(The knee of María García makes makes me dirtier rather than cleaner).


 Answers on a postcard, please.

Another General election is coming up in November. The parties are busily slagging each other off and at the same time trying to cobble together alliances in order to win a majority and form a viable government. (sound familiar?).

Pedro Sánchez (no relation), prime minister and leader of the PSOE party dealt himself a stunning blow last week when he referred to Jamón Ibérico as Jamón Serrano. Gasps of horror went up as he committed this gaffe of gaffes.

Gaffacious enough, it seems, to lose him the election. His error was gleefully reported in all the national newspapers.

     Pedro Sánchez just about to put his pata negra in it.

Jamón (ham) is probably the most popular food item in Spain. As everyone knows, it´s made from the legs of dead pigs which are soaked in brine, hung up for years, sliced into the thinnest of slices and served with little bread sticks called picos.

So far, so good.
 
Athough some very tasty and high quality Serrano (mountain) hams (if you like that sort of thing) come from places like Teruel and Trevélez, they are made from 'white' pigs.
In Extramadura in the west of Spain they have 'Iberico' pigs which have black feet (patas negras), wander about a bit and are fed for a time on acorns (bellotas).

                        Ibérico porkers eating acorns.

Jamón Ibérico Bellota is the Rolls Royce of the ham world. It's very expensive, too. It's often just called 'pata negra'.
                                                                Jamón Ibérico Bellota (840€)


                                 Teruel Serrano Ham (102€)

You can see why they slice these hams so thinly. They even have a national a competition in ham slicing and you can do a PhD. in Jamonología at Spain's most prodigious university in Salamanca.

Only well-heeled Spaniards can afford to buy the best hams, but you can get good Jamón Ibérico as a tapa at many of the bars in Álora. If you´re in the right place at the right time you may even be able to beg a bostin' bone from a bar. They are great for soups and stews. I'm not going to tell you which bars to beg in.

However, co-incidentally,  jolly joker Antonio Gil who now runs the bar called 'La Jamonería' has closed his bar for a bit.


The notice reads
'Shut until it´s open again'

Juanito Sánchez October 11th. 2019