Monday, 12 April 2021

The Pain in Spain. It´s coming round again.

 


They're off! 

It's all happening here in Inglaterra. Just one day to go and I can get a  haircut, buy a pair of shoes and sit outside a pub watching the snow come down as I slurp pint of cold beer. 

It's April 11th. 2021 and snow is falling. Yesterday, Saturday, our central heating boiler packed up, just after we had opened all the windows so that Ash and Paul, the electricians, could work in Covid safety. 



No heating, no electricity and no 'Sounds of the Sixties', which was cancelled because The Duke of Edinburgh had died the day before and the BBC decided that the old codgers like me, who get up at 6.00am.on a freezing cold Saturday morning to listen to the music of our distant youth, should show some respect by listening to more appropriate music, which included such morale boosters as: 

The Theme From the Deer Hunter (John Williams),

Tears in Heaven and My Father's Eyes  (Eric Clapton)

 and Do You Know Where You're Going To? (Diana Ross).

A couple of surprises were:

 'I want to Know What Love Is', by Foreigner (he was never very keen on them), and 

Crazy (Patsy Cline).

The good news is that the Grand National horse race was won for the first time by a woman, Rachael Blackmore, or as some may have it, for the umpteenth time by a horse.

They didn't have a race last year because we were all 'locked down', pretty much as we are now The 'Boat Race' was cancelled too, but this year things are obviously looking up.

                  The Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race

The Grand National horse race and The Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race, which always seem to take place on the same day, are two great British sporting events, indeed institutions, which along with the English FA Cup Final have, from time immemorial, marked the end of the British winter. -  and we're glad they are all back on this year. 

The Boat Race had to be moved to the River Great Ouse at Ely because of Covid restrictions.

Apparently, so that the 8 rowers and the 'cox' (the chap who sits facing the wrong way with his hands in his pockets and  doesn't do any work  but still has the cheek to keep shouting at the rowers to Get a f***ing move on!) are at least two metres (6.56 ft.) apart, the boats have to be twice as long and are difficult to steer round the tight bends on the River Thames. The Great River Ouse is a lot straighter.


        The Boat Race Course on The River Thames.

These world famous events make one feel  proud to be British and they lift one's spirits as one looks forward to another glorious British summer of cricket, holidays by the sea, Wimbledon and salad for tea.

 

                                An English Summer

For Mrs. Sánchez and I, that's what being British is all about, even though we have foreign-sounding names and are often told to 'get back where you came from' when we arrive back in Blighty, tanned and relaxed, after our spring sojourn in Álora.

And now that we have left the European Union and 'taken back control', such important traditional events are all the more important to us in re-establishing our national identity, post BREXIT.

This year The Grand National was won by an Irish horse ridden by an Irish jockey.

The Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race was won by Cambridge with only three out of the eight rowers being British. The 'cox' was American. 

The four English Association Football Clubs which have reached the semi-finals of the FA Cup, Chelsea, Leicester City, Southampton and Manchester City are all owned by foreign nationals (China, Abu Dhabi, Russia, Thailand)

Three out of four of their trainers/managers are foreign nationals.

Out of sixty possible players only 15 are English.

Just saying.

 

 Mrs, Sánchez and I have had our second 'jab' of The Astra-Zeneca anti-Covid 19 vaccine so we're feeling very positive and looking forward to going out again tomorrow, if we can remember where the shops are and how to drive the car.

We were due to catch the boat from Portsmouth to Santander tomorrow, but we can't go unless we pretend that we want to rent out or sell our luxury Spanish villa or on  some other laughable pretext and which would not make any difference as Spain still won't let us in yet.

They can't stop little Monty because he has a Spanish European Pet Passport, but we'd miss him.


                            'Please don't make me go'.

 To be honest, I'd rather be here in England at the moment, even though it´s freezing cold. The EU, and particularly Spain, is making a spectacular cock-up of things Covid -related at the moment. Their vaccination programme has only just got off the ground, they are expecting a 'fourth wave of infections' and they can't agree about crucial issues like travel, mixing in public, face masks and whether or not they want the 'British' Astra -Zeneca vaccine or not.

Part of the problem is that the Comunidades (Autonomous Regions) of Spain - Andalucia, Madrid, Murcia, Castilla-La Mancha etc. are allowed to make many of their own decisions about curfews, opening of 'hostelería' (bars, hotels and restaurants), restriction of travel between their own provinces, towns and villages and movement between one Comunidad and adjacent ones. Also, under EU rules, movement between member states is allowed.


Spanish Comunidades (Autonomous Regions)

 

This has resulted in some bizarre, conflicting rules, particularly when the Madrid Comunidad is involved. They have insisted on acting against government guidelines all through the pandemic and have one of the highest death rates in Spain, which they now  blame on the national government.

At the moment, you are allowed to leave the Madrid region but not to enter another one. You can take a plane from Madrid Airport to France, but can not travel 20 km.(12.4 miles) to visit your family in neighbouring Castilla-León.

 

                          Spanish Provincias (Provinces)

In effect, Spaniards can not move around Spain, but can move in and out of it. Also, people from any EU country can fly to Spain and travel around Spain. This has made lots of Spanish people very angry, particlarly during the Semana Santa (Easter) holiday period when many Spanish people go back to their home towns and villages for Easter and many Madrileños like to head for the beaches on the Costa Del Sol.

So... Madrid has become the party centre of Europe, particularly for young French binge-drinkers whooping it up when the locals are hell bent on getting out. Germans have been fleeing from areas in their own country with rising Covid numbers to areas like Mallorca where there is a low incidence of Covid. (at the moment).

The wearing of facemasks is causing the latest hoo-ha. The rules are as labyrinthine as the Laws of English Cricket or ´the offside rule´

You don't need to wear a mask during exercise, including swimming in the sea or in swimming pools, nor during 'rest periods', but for rivers and beaches you have to remain 'in a specific place' and keep 1.5 metres away from non-household members. You must wear a mask when you're walking to a beach or  river bank or a lakeside and in changing rooms.

You must wear a mask inside or outside a bar 'except for the moments necessary for drinking and eating'.

 


Originally, Sanidad (the Health Ministry) had said that you must wear a mask even when walking outside in the country or up a mountain, which was both unreasonable and difficult to enforce - criteria that have never been an issue in English, Welsh, Scottish and Northern Irish rules. Yes, we have our own Comunidades here, and they make their own rules too.

Of course, in Spain, you still have to wear a mask in enclosed areas and in busy public places.

'While masks should be obligatory in enclosed spaces, it is not necessary for everyone to wear one. 'What's important is that people who are infected wear one - although we don't know who is infected and who isn't.'   

Fernando Simon, head of Spain's co-ordination centre for health emergencies and alerts.

I do hope that nobody is depending on this blog for up-to-date information on wearing facemasks.

Spain is facing a fourth wave of the coronavirus which has already infected 3,326,736 people and claimed 76,037 lives.

Pie News

On a lighter, but high calorie note, I have news from Pieland.

Last week Mrs. Sánchez suggested that, as we are allowed, under the new rules to go futher than 5 miles from home, she would like to visit her sister who is currently residing in a care home in Shaw, near Oldham, Greater Manchester,

 It would have to be 'window visit' using mobile phones to communicate through a closed window. The idea appealed to me, even though it meant driving 200 miles for a half hour visit and taking two dogs with us. Of course it was worth the trip! They hadn't seen each other for over a year. How could I object to such a 'mercy mission'?

I had received a tip-off from a usually unreliable scource that the Shaw branch of Asda stocked Holland's Pies.  

                        A happy Holland´s Haficionado

So off we went, equipped with a pre-primed cool box to transport the frozen pies back to Brum.

This was the first time we had driven any distance in England during Easter in 20 years. We are usually in Álora at this time of the year, and in April last year we were under house arrest in Birmingham. Can you believe it? Asda was closed! All the shops were closed. There was not a pie to be had in the whole town, not even for ready cash.

I sometimes think they go a bit over the top in Álora during Semana Santa (Easter), and I admit it was Easter Sunday, but surely this is taking Christianity a bit too seriously.  No pies!!?

Mrs. Sánchez and her sister had a nice chat, but the day was a  soured by the failure of my unsuccessful piegrimage.

On Tuesday I rang the Holland's Pie factory in Baxenden, deep in the beautiful and relatively unknown, Lancashire Dales, and asked  where I might find a Holland's pie in the Midlands. I'd already tried Asda and Iceland. I got through to Mrs. Wainthropp, Head of Pie Location, UK Division.

          Mrs, Wainthropp. Head of Pie Location, Holland's

'If it's a meat pie you're after you may be out of luck as they are rather regional.' said Mrs. Wainthropp,

 So much for globalisation.

And yet, after a couple of minutes of pie perusal, she came up with Farm Foods in Acocks Green, just ten minutes drive away. 'They had an order from us two weeks ago. 24 steak and kidney pies, two dozen steak puddings and 25 meat pies.'

I rushed round there and bought the lot.

Best Wishes

Juanito Sánchez April 12th. 2021.





 


Sunday, 7 February 2021

A Variety of Virus and Vaccine Vacuities and some very important advice before you travel.

 

 A Variety of Virus and Vaccine Vacuities and some very important advice before you travel.


Well, who'd have thought it eh? Just as it was getting safe to go out again, along comes a 'mutant virus' (technically a 'variant') to spoil everything again. Typical! At least this time it was British. None of that Chinese muck for us now. Bigger, stronger, very sociable and just the ticket to take us into the new era of Boris's Brexit Britain. Someone up there must have a sense of humour, not to mention a keen ironic bent, even if I haven't. 

But now here comes another one...and another! South Africa, Brazil, and I've heard that the Turks and Caicos Islands (Hello everyone!) are developing a Caribbean version. They've already got a Novichok variant in Russia. Just as well that there are so many vaccines being developed, too.

Mrs. S. and I have already chosen the 'Oxford' vaccine because it's British, it sounds so intelligent and traditional, and John Lewis are stocking it. No side effects so far!

                        A rare photo of Snr. Sánchez.

A long time ago in December, when Mrs. Sánchez and I completed our 2 weeks in quarantine at home, following our stay in Álora, we couldn´t wait to run out and buy the biggest Christmas tree we could find and put our Christmas lights up outside to show our neighbours how optimistic we were that things were going to get better soon. They didn't, did they?

I must say we were expecting to get a visit or a phone call from Boris Johnson or somebody official to make sure we were staying in. No such luck! They were only kidding about  checking up on quarantine after all! We didn't realise it was just a Christmas prank. Oh, that Boris! he doesn't know when to stop. How we laughed! Monty was not amused.

They say that an optimist is 'someone who isn't in full possession of the facts'. They were right this time. 

 

                                              An optimist

Luckily we managed to cram the car with cheap Spanish wine from Hipercor in Santander on the way back from Spain so the days haven´t seemed so long. We're back to 'duty free allowances' the next time we go - whenever that might be.

I don't know about you, dear reader, but I'm getting fed up with turning on the telly just to see some scruffy, unshaven, homebound, lockdown-fatigued loner poking his big, fat, distorted face at me to tell me how bad things still are. 

 Thank goodness for Netflix... and click and collect... and red wine. 

 

It´s February now and the red wine is running out faster than Dominic Cummings (remember him?) legging it down Downing Street on his way to Barnard Castle to get his eyes tested. We're back where were were in March. It's like deja vu all over again for the second time, again.

Last Spring and Summer weren't too bad at all, when I look back, even if we could only go out once a day unless we were going out to buy food. We spent most of the time in our palatial, well-stocked English garden.

 

We hardly go out at all now, even though we are are partly protected against the Coronavirus. There´s nowhere to go anyway and it's too cold and wet to sit in the garden.

At least the weather is good in Álora. They had a bit of rain there a few weeks ago, which was good for the olives but it's been warm and sunny since. They've only just shut down the bars and restaurants there, as Covid cases have started rising rapidly. I hope it's not the 'British Variant'. We're in enough trouble there for leaving the EU without taking the blame for el lockdown number two as well. The Scots have wasted no time in distancing themselves from any blame by going for independence again. Did you know that the centre of Great Britain is at Haltwhistle, by Hadrian's Wall? Well it is, so the UK stands to lose half its geographical area to Scotland....and all because of Brexit. Can things get any worse?


They did yesterday when I dropped my mobile phone and smashed the screen. There was nobody around to blame, which was bad enough, but all the mobile phone shops are shut and my new online replacement will take a week to get here from Hangzhou.

Apart from not being able to WhatsApp funny videos and argue with strangers on Facebook, this catastrophe has seriously affected my lockdown Spanish-learning plans.

I have just built up a team of Spanish speakers from all over the world who want to help me with my Spanish skills. I downloaded the TANDEM app., entered a bit of personal information and the language I was learning and, Bob's your uncle, I am now chatting with Spanish speakers in Columbia, Bolivia, Peru and Columbia ...there seem to be a lot of people in Columbia wanting to help me with my Spanish.

 

Many of my new friends are quite young and all  the ladies are very attractive although so far not one of them has replied to me after my initial message asking them where they live and what they are wearing. I think something has been lost in translation.
 It looks as though Álora is getting over the peak of the Coronavirus second wave. The Monday market at the bottom of Calle Carmona is going to take place again next Monday and Álora has been moved down a category from Alert Level 4 grade 2 to grade 1. That means that the bars and restaurants can reopen in a limited way. BUT.... the bar and owners there have decided not to take advantage of the relaxation  'en un ejercicio de responsibilidad y solidaridad con la situación sanitaria en nuestra localidad.' ( to show responsibility and solidarity for the health and safety of our town).
I feel so proud that the Perotes have decided only to re-open 'paulatinamente' (gradually) as more data comes in about infection levels.
 
Good news for visitors to Europe
 
 
Here's a picture of Mrs. Sánchez showing off her new Global Health Insurance Card.
 
Remember the EHIC card?
 
 
One of the most disappointing consequences of the UK leaving the European Union on December 31st. 2020 was that the EHIC card would no longer be valid. It used to entitle all UK residents to emergency  treatment in other EU countries. A few weeks ago there was a small reprieve allowing us the same rights until the card expired.
 
Mrs. S. and I have used the card and its predecessor, the E111 cetificate, more than once in the last 20 or so years we have been visiting Álora. Health Insurance for long stays has always been expensive so we have always relied on this magic little card. 
It was free and saw us through two broken legs and a broken arm. 
 

We were quick off the mark to try and renew our EHIC cards before the deadline. No luck, but on Friday Mrs. Sánchez received her shiny new all- British Global Health Insurance Card (GHIC) which appears to give the same cover,
Nothing for me so far.
If you're thinking of visiting Álora when we´re allowed out again, get one of these little fellers ASAP, especially if you´re above a certain age and you want to stay longer than two weeks.
I'm not sure if the Spanish Health Service has heard about it yet.

The next thing to sort out is Monty's Pet Passport.
 
Juanito Sánchez February 7th. 2021




 





 

Monday, 7 December 2020

Home is Where the heart lies. I left mine in Álora.

 

Home is where the heart lies. I left mine in Álora.

 

 


 Be  it ever so humble, there's no place like home..

...or so the song goes. Mrs. Sánchez and I have the good fortune to have two places that we can call home - Álora and Birmingham. In Spain we are officially 'extranjeros' (foreigners) or 'non-residents' and, unofficially, 'guiris' (bloody foreigners) which means we are, to all intents and purposes, 'on holiday' even though we've been spending about six months a year in Álora for around 17 years now.

We started coming to Álora 21 years ago. We knew little about Spain, nothing at all about Andalucía and we spoke only a smattering of 'Spanish'. One cold November day we landed in Málaga with our friends, Terry and Moira, to look for a retirement home that we planned buy together. It took us four days to find Álora, a couple of hours to fall for the place, and a couple more days to buy our home in Calle Benito Suarez. I can remember walking down Calle Santa Ana on a crisp November morning in 1999, spotting La Plaza de la Fuente Arriba and thinking, to quote Frankie Vaughan and Terry Colley,               

 "Man, this is the place!"

 

               Álora from Plaza de la Fuente Arriba before Spain joined the European Union (and before the plaza existed).

 The first day we were in Álora, a local agente inmobiliario (estate agent), Antonio Fuentes, introduced us to his tío y tía (uncle and aunt) Antonio Martos and Ana Molina who ran a  bar-restaurant, La Taberna de Antonio, on La Rampa and Calle Chozuelos (formally Calle Alemania) They sold Álora to us in less than an hour and we bought our Spanish residence two days later.

Mr.and Mrs.Sánchez. Christmas 1999.

21 years later, just a few weeks ago, we motored up past the castlllo arabe to our reserved parking space on Calle Benito Suarez to be greeted with enthusiastic shouts of, "!Bienvenidos!", (Welcome), "¡Otra vez los Guiris!" (We've missed you) and Jajaja. Brexit!" ("God save the Queen!").

Towards the end of our five week stay it became increasingly obvious that Spain was heading for tighter Covid-19 restrictions. Many towns and regions we would have to pass through on our drive to Bilbao and the Portsmouth ferry were already sealed off except for 'essential' travel. We left on November 9th.- the day the new Covid rules came into force, which extended the national curfew, stopped movement between all towns and villages and closed lots of bars and restaurants.

We set off at dawn so that Monty could have a good run before we headed north to Aranda de Duero, via Madrid. The roads out of Álora were still open, even though the new restrictions had come in at midnight. By the next day the Guardia Civil were blocking the roads in and out of Álora. 

We headed for breakfast at El Capricho, on the road to Granada, a city that had been under tight restrictions for months. Every few kilometres overhead signs kept reminding us that there was an estado de alarma (State of Alarm) and to expect controles en carretera (road blocks) and there was very little traffic.

 

The cafe was open for business, as usual, with all the Covid-19 safety measures being strictly observed, and so we set off again for the Andaluz border confident that things weren´t going to be so bad after all. 

It takes about two and a half hours to drive from Álora to the Despeñaperros ('where the dogs are thrown over') Gorge which is the boundary between the Andalucía and Castilla-La Mancha regions.

                             The Depeñaperros Pass

 Before they blasted tunnels through hills of the Sierra Morena and built vertiginous (not bad eh?) viaducts across the gorge, there used to be a narrow, winding road down at the bottom which followed the line of the Rio Despeñaperros. The hairpin bends down there were quite challenging and more often than not we would come across an 'artic' or two waiting to be pulled back onto the road. These accidents caused no end of traffic queues so the EU (remember them?) spent hundreds of millions of euros on a spectacular road which, on a good day, can take 10 minutes off your journey. Worth every centimo, in my opinion.

You may think that 'The gorge where the dogs are thrown over' is something I just made up.... Moi?

The 'dogs' in the title are the Almohad fighters who were given a good biffing in 1212 AD. at the Battle of Navas de Tolosa (or The Battle of Al-Uqab, depending on whose side you were on), just up the road, by a Christian army led by King Alfonso Vlll of Castile.


                         The Almohads getting a biffing.

In those days most of southern Spain was under Almohad (Muslim) rule and this battle was a big win for Alfonso
which he celebrated by chucking thousands of 'moros' (anyone from north Africa) prisoners and bodies over the cliffs. 

They weren't a bad lot, the Almohads, they invented chess and gave their name to la almohada (the pillow). But Spanish people  in those days were very cruel and thought that chucking people off cliffs was great fun. These days they just chuck their rubbish, old cars and donkeys off the cliffs.    


                       An Almohad soldier with his flag.   

We were expecting to be stopped at the Andalucía border, so Mrs. Sánchez had our passports and ferry ticket at the ready to show that our journey was 'essential'. Sure enough, about 20km. further on, the motorway was blocked by Los Civiles and all drivers were being stopped and interrogated.

 

They took one look at our loaded roof rack and British number plate and waved us on. Result! The same happened the next day, north of Burgos as we entered the region of Cantabria on the way for breakfast at our favourite hostal/restaurante in Sotopalacios

Sotopalacios (pop. 550) has two attractions and is well worth the detour. The Hostal/Restaurante Sotopalacios does the best tostada con aceite y tomate (toast with olive oil and tomato) I have ever tasted, and there's a morcilla (black pudding) factory and shop next door.

Hostal/restaurante Sotopalacios.

The Morcilla shop.

Now, I know that one or two vegetarians read this venereal organ of mine from time to time, and many meat-eaters draw the line at, or above, black pudding, but these delicious dark delicacies are the best in their class. We usually stock up with a few kilos and other tasty items at this porcine paradise. 


But breakfast first.

The bar/restaurant was shut!! I was stunned. I even banged on the door in case there was some mistake. No sign of life. The small bar across the road showed no sign of life either. Litter, leaves and leaflets had piled up in the doorway and tumble-weed bowled down the deserted main(only) street in an icy, howling breeze.

If anyone has read all of the 172 editions of this blog... well done. You may remember that Mrs. Sánchez and I stayed for a night at Hostal Sotopalacios in 2002 AD. Our room was well equipped - a luxury bathroom with a heart-shaped double bath with far more shower options than any reasonable person might need, a four-poster bed with a mirror above which displayed erotic images when you put on the bedside light...and nowhere to put your clothes. We never found the CCTV cameras but we got a round of applause the next morning when we came down for breakfast. (Morcilla de Burgos, of course)


                              The 'special' bathroom.

As luck would have it, black pudding is classed as as an essential item and the shop was open. They have a security system there, similar to those in shops in the Jewellery Quarter in Birmingham. You have to ring the bell and they unlock the door. Those black beauties are precious items in these parts. I asked the nice lady who minds the shop for her daughter where we might get some breakfast. She had no idea. 

We drove on in silence except for the rumbling of our stomachs, stopping at a couple of gasolineras in case they had a coffee machine and some fresh bread. After a half hour of hunger we spotted a roadside hotel with a few cars parked outside and pulled in.The tables inside were occupied by men in high-vis. jackets scoffing bocadillos and drinking steaming, aromatic coffee. They all looked up as we walked in. The camarera leaned forward on the bar and shook her head slowly. 

'We're shut except for essential workers. These men are all road workers. What do you want?'

'Dos tostadas con aceite y dos cafés'.

'OK, but you'll have to take them outside.' Result.

Our plan was to drive to Bilbao via Santander, have a nice lunch in a harbourside fish restaurant, take Monty for a run, do some essential shopping (gin and wine) and then drive on to Bilbao for the ferry. Some chance!

                             The Spanish comunidades.

The new restrictions depended on which region (comunidad) you were in, and we'd gone through six of them. In Álora the bars and restaurants can still open until 9.30pm.(but you can't leave town. Why would you?).  We were in two of the most restricted regions, and it was Mrs.S's birthday the next day! No birthday meal, and we'd been told that the restaurant and all the bars on the boat would be closed too, as they had to follow French rules!

Things looked bleak. The supermarkets were open so we bought enough for a couple of picnic meals in our cabin.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next morning, a fine day to be at sea in the Bay of Biscay, the birthday girl and I searched for a free wifi signal in case any of our family had remembered the day and were trying to whatsapp birthday messages. The reception area seemed to be 'hot' and Mrs. S's jolly phone notification tune raised our spirits no end.


 

 Just then an announcement came over the ship's 'tannoy' asking us to go to reception. We've travelled on these ferries many times and that announcement usually means a car alarm has gone off. We walked across to the desk, identified ourselves and were given two packets of French biscuits, a rendition of 'Happy Birthday To You' from the receptionist and an invitation to come back an hour later to be taken up to 'the bridge' to meet the captain! What larks!

The Bay of Biscay can strike terror into the hearts of even the hardiest of sailors. It is noted for storms, dangerous currents, big waves and 72 shipwrecks. The old wooden sailing ships often became 'embayed' by westerly gale-force winds (blowing from the left when sailing north), which meant they could not get out of the bay under sail and ended up crashing into the coast of France. Even modern ships give the Bay a 'wide berth' as they head north to go round the 'Brest Peninsula' to enter the English Channel.

The 'Modern Express' in a spot of bother. 26th January 2016


 As we were led through the secret door to the ship's 'bridge', we were just rounding the Brest Penisula

                                   The secret door.

Apparently, as the weather was nice and the tide was high, the captain was taking a short cut by going inside the island of Ushant. He has a pilot's licence so he's allowed to do it. He thought it would be a good time to watch from the bridge. Those rocks looked a bit too close for my liking but I said nothing, so as not to spoil Mrs.S's birthday treat, which at this point, she still thought I had arranged.








 Mrs. Sánchez: Come on everyone,  'Happy birthday to you.....'

The Captain:     Don't push your luck, cherie.

The crew of our boat, the Cap Finisterre, were nearly all Bretons, including the captain. Brittany Ferries was set up in 1973 by a group of French farmers who wanted to take advantage of Britain's membership of 'The Common Market', later to become 'The European Union'. Oops.

                           Breton  'Onion Johnnies'
 

We have tickets to travel back to Spain next March when Britain will no longer be a member of the European Union.

Mrs. S. and I think that we very lucky to get to Álora at all this year, the year of the Coronavirus. At least the pandemic could not have been avoided....

We´re out of 'self isolation' now. A vaccine will be available for priority cases from tomorrow. Things are looking up.

Hasta pronto.

Juanito Sánchez December 7th. 2020.

 

 

                                               




 






 

 


Wednesday, 4 November 2020

Where did that year go? Man in Álora is.

 Where did that year go? Man in Álora is.

 

 

 



 

It's good to be back.

Mrs. Sánchez and I finally made it back to Álora four weeks ago and have loved every minute. As we came round the last bend and the magnificent Moorish castle came into sight for the first time since last November, we brushed warm, salty tears from our eyes and I looked forward to my first gambas al pil pil, calamares a la plancha and that gem of the autumnal gastronomie andaluz ... callos.

 

My last communication as ´'Man not in Álora' mentioned the possibility of a new Spanish State of Emergency  (estado de alarma) being imposed as Covid 19 cases appeared to be ´spiralling out of control´. Well, here it is, and all kinds of obstacles are appearing which are going to make our return to Boris's Bonkers Blighty a bit tricky.

The new 'State of Alarm' gives the Spanish government all kinds of special powers but can only last for 15 days unless it is renewed. These powers can include a toque de queda (curfew), restriction of movement, searches of property and the rationing of papel hygenico (toilet paper). 

There have only ever been three estados de alarma in Spain since the end of the Franco dictatorship (apart from a little hiccup in1981 when there was an attempted military coup d'etat). The first was in December 2010, over Christmas, when the air traffic controllers went on strike. The second was in March this year and lasted until June 21st.

The third state of alarm was imposed on October 7th. 2020. It wasn't as draconian as the March one and initially only applied to the province of Madrid, which upset the Madrileños no end.

'Why just us?' they all shouted.


                                      Angry Madrileños

On October 25th. a national curfew was announced. Everybody in Spain now has to be in their homes by 11.00pm. and not go out until 6.00am. the next morning. This will last until November 9th, the day we leave for the UK!!! Homeless people and key workers are exempted. Also some provinces, towns and villages were told to close their borders, so-called perimetral restrictions, in order to avoid the full lockdown imposed earlier this year, which was very strict. It doesn't seem to be working, so new measures will be considered tomorrow.

 

 

The 'new normal' in the Top Square.

After a couple of days unpacking and hacking back the jungle that used to be our back garden we put on our pretty facemasks and headed up into town.

Everybody is wearing a mascarilla - in the street, in cars, out in the campo, in bed - everywhere. The fear of being confined to barracks again and the massive fines for not wearing one seems to have done the trick, and the Perotes have been wearing them during temperatures of more than 40 degrees centigrade. Phew!


                 ¡LA MASCARILLA ES OBLIGATORIA!

The weather here has been warm and sunny most of the time and  the Top Square (la Plaza de la Fuente Arriba) at 11.00am on Friday was as lively as ever. Apart from the mascarillas it appeared to 'business as usual'.

All the shops and bars were open, with restrictions on numbers, distancing and antiseptic gels. It took a few minutes to realise that one of the most endearing of Spanish customs was absent - no physical contact. No kissing on both cheeks, no hugs and no handshakes. The preferred greeting here is either 'elbows' or 'hand on heart'

You don´t have to wear a mask when you are sitting at a table, but a lot of people are getting to like wearing them. I was expecting to see 'piebald' faces when the masks came off. All that sun for months on end and half your face covered... well, stands to reason, but it's not the case.


I think it's a good look.

Our friend Ana Molina invited us round for a meal, which is still legal in Spain. She had a lot to say about 'El lockdown' (same word in Spanish).

The Top Square was deserted for most of the lockdown...apart from a visit from a lone horse that went through town looking in shop windows and a jabalí (wild boar) that tried to get in Bar Cafe Madrugón for a coffee and anis.

                ¡Venga Javi. Póngame un cafelito, coño!

I heard from a usually unreliable scource that over in Mijas, Marbella and Benahavis these hairy porkers have become such a problem in the town and on the roads that the Junta de Andalucía is encouraging people to hunt them with 'arcos y flechas'. (bows and arrows). 'They've bagged 60 so far and the meat has been donated to soup kitchens. Only a small number of residents and holidaymakers have been shot by mistake so far.

This mascarilla malarkey is a bit pesado (annoying) if you wear glasses and don't hear too well. For a start, how can you recognise people to say hello to when half their face is covered and your glasses are steamed up all the time? When you do get it right and it really is someone you know, you can´t tell what they´re saying and they can't hear you either, you can't lipread, and they're talking in Perote Spanish which you haven´t heard or spoken for a year. I can't wait to get back to England where nobody talks to you anyway.

They don't appear to have a test and trace system here. No-one takes your contact details in bars or resaurants. The simplest way to test yourself is to drive down to the Serrana gasolinera on the road to Málaga. If you can't smell the pong coming from the nearby pig farm, you really do have a problem!
 

                               Shut that window!

Our second big job has been to pick the olives at our olivar near Casarabonela, a town with a name that even the locals can't pronounce. We have to pass the Gasolinera Serrana on the way there so we've had a Coronavirus test twice a day for about two weeks.

This year we had a reasonably good crop of olives - small, a bit shrunken after a long dry summer, but lots of them. We just couldn't get enough people to to help us to pick them this year. Our pal and harvest boss, Colin, took a chance and flew down from Liverpool to help and we ended up with 930 kg. of good olives. Thanks also to Jim, Mike, Shirley and Glenys.


                            Colin and Mrs. S. in action.

The olive oil is very good this year. We extracted 167 litres. The olive mill just down the road from Olivar Caicunes is usually buzzing with activity at this time of the year. Farmers come and go all day with their olives and most of them are up for a chat about, well, olives mainly, and they've opened a little cafetería too. This year masks had to be worn in and outside the mill, except in the cafetería if you were sitting at a table. Mrs. S. and I were politely asked to leave the mill as only two people were allowed in and only when their oil is ready to  pour. 

One thing that hadn't changed was the smell. There is nothing quite like the smell of an olive mill in full swing. It's a real spirit lifter.

                             Mrs, S. waiting for the oil.

We usually send some of our olive oil back to Birmingham where we sell it one day a month on Moseley Farmers' Market.

This year we hit a problem when I contacted our usual 'man with a van' to arrange the transport. He said he was unable to oblige this year as he is awaiting trial for, allegedly, trying to smuggle a rather large amount of cannabis into Britain. 

Álora lives for its festivals and special days.This year has seen the cancellation of nearly all of them. Even though only 5 Perotes have died from Covid 19, the residents here have had to live through the strictest lockdown rules in the world and it looks likely that they are set to return very soon.

This year all these have not happened:

Carnaval (Carnival )

Semana Santa (Holy Week)

La Feria (The Annual Fair Week)

La Romería de la Virgen de las Flores (The pilgrimage for Álora's patron.)

El Día de las Sopas Perotas (The celebration of the town's signature dish). 

Even Halloween was a tame affair this year, which was a blessing.

Nothing much happens at Christmas anyway,

El Día de los Muertos (The Day of the Dead) seems to have taken place as normal. This is the day when people go up to the cemetery and put flowers by their relatives' nichos (graves). It's a good day for the florists and taxi drivers and once again Alora's museum put on a special exhibition to celebrate the day.

María José who is the curator of the museum, stopped me in the street to remind me about her 2020 display.



I didn't know what to say.

Now here's a thing.

I have been surprised and puzzled by the number of Brits, who have lived here throughout the Pandemic's 'first wave,' that believe it has all been fake - that people are not dying in large numbers and that it is all some kind of plot or conspiracy.

'It's just like 'flu'

'It's a natural thing, we just have to accept it'

'It's been manufactured by the powers that be.'

'They just want to keep us under control.'

'The hospitals have nothing to do because there are no Covid patients and they've cancelled other operations.'

It's true to say that Álora does feel a safe place to be at the moment. We'll  see.

 Just because it's a conspiracy theory doesn't mean it's not true.

Meanwhile we shall attempt to drive back to England next Monday amid lockdowns and restrictions in Spain and in the UK.

Wish us luck. 

Watch this space.


Juanito Sánchez 4th. November 2020.