Yesterday we did a 'vuelta'; the first for some time. A vuelta involves visiting a number of favourite bars for a drink and a tapa or two. All the bars on the route are in or near the top square (La Plaza de la Fuente Arriba) and will be featured at some point in the popular series 'Favourite Bars'. 'Vuelta' or 'dar una vuelta' means to go around as in 'dar la vuelta al mundo' (to go around the world) or it can mean to go for a walk. Or it can mean 'a pub crawl'. Our vueltas began twelve years ago. Our leader was Antonio Martos and on Wednesdays he shut his bar and did the rounds of the competition. Terry and I were invited to join him (and later Chris and many others) to be introduced to the popular art of 'tapeando'.
Here's the routine.
Bar Alegría
Pedro recites the list of hot tapas and indicates the cold ones on the bar, 'Rosada, calamares gambas plancha, boquerones, coquinas, magro, huevos cordoniz...........'
'Dos Huevos Cordoniz'. Mini full English Breakfast! A fried quail's egg and a piece of bacon on a small piece of 'pan cateto' (a dense bread). And off we go. By the time we have finished the tapas and had a few sips of the ice cold Cruzcampo, Antonio has paid the bill and is heading for the door having left an inch of cerveza in his glass. We gulp down the beer and follow.
Variations on this procedure then take place at Bar Madrugon, Cafe Central (known as Salvador to the locals), Los Caballos Dos, (no Bar Chismo as, except on glorious rare occasions, it used to shut on Wednesday's), The Peña Barçelonista (until it closed down) and then on for the grand finale at Lod Antonio. I'm sure I've left one or two out. Oh yes, and Antonio would sometimes backtrack to Alegría or have two drinks and tapas at Azahar which would throw out our calculations on whose round it was. This element was difficult enough as it is not unusual for the round to be paid by an apparent stranger who gives the camarero a secret nod and leaves without a word. For this reason we always keep a five or ten euro note in our hands, ready to slap it on the bar if Antonio or anyone else gave the slightest sign of leaving or paying .
A few years ago, when times were better we'd meet other groups or individuals tapeando, especially after 2pm. during the lunch break. These days Wednesdays are pretty quiet around the bars.
The Vuelta has been a great opportunity for practising our Spanish and meeting Perotes.(come to think of it, it's the main reason for learning Spanish anyway). Names, phone numbers, names of recommended books, bands , authors etc. are scribbled down on paper serviettes from the bar and found (or washed) at a later date in pockets. 'Now what was that about?'
We have never got to the bottom of why Antonio and other Perotes leave a small amount of beer or wine in their glasses. Perhaps it's a tip for the camarero although I doubt it. It seems a bit of a waste to me, as does their lack of concern that their glasses are not filled to the brim; indeed there is a `preference for as much espuma (froth) as possible. When I told the old joke of the man asking the barman 'Can you put a whisky in that?' ('Well if you can fit a whisky in you can fit some more beer in') it brought the house down. Then I realised that it was only being taken as further proof that foreigners are cheapskates. I had to repeat it in every bar. How we laughed!
Antonio Martos in his favourite spot in Lod Antonio
Lod Antonio is strategically situated two doors down from Antonio's bar/house and here we would part company with him and he would go home for his lunch (!), but not before 'la penultima' (the next to the last drink) and la espuela (the last drink to 'spur' you on your way home). You never say la ultima' . That means your very last drink.
By this time we are usually well into the Vuelta and, not wishing to end the fun we have been known to continue our progress, sometimes discovering 'new' venues.
24/11/2012
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